Easter, in Spain and Portugal, has very little to do with eggs, bunnies, and feathers in different colours. Instead, it has everything to do with religion and traditions. Easter is celebrated during the whole week and is a solemn affair for the most part. The Holy week is called Semana Santa in both countries and as both Spain and Portugal are Catholic countries it is reflected in the celebrations.
This time of year, it is the perfect time to visit Portugal and Spain. The weather is warming up and almost every day something special is happening during Semana Santa. The religious heritage and traditions are honoured all over the countries in different ways. There are many local variations, but all are fun and interesting to watch and perhaps even be a part of.
The Easter celebrations in the town of Braga, located north of Porto in northern Portugal stands out a little extra. Braga is the country’s ecclesiastical capital and during Semana Santa, the whole city transforms itself into a place of pilgrimage and religious activities. The churches across the city are beautifully decorated with purple cloths, flowers, and candles.
For many centuries Braga has been the episcopal see of archbishops and its importance can be seen everywhere. There are numerous beautiful and grand monuments all over the city.
Semana Santa is celebrated over several days with a series of processions re-enacting important Biblical scenes.
The proceedings traditionally begin on the night of the Wednesday before Easter with the procession of Senhora da Burrinha. The procession is always led by a donkey and in this parade, children play an important part. The next day, on the Maundy Thursday, the most visually impressive procession during Braga’s Semana Santa takes place. That is the torch-lit Senhor Ecce Homo. The procession starts and ends at the city’s cathedral. It is a solemn and religious affair led by barefoot, black-hooded people known locally as farricocos who silently walks slowly through the medieval streets.
On Good Friday, the celebration of the Lord’s Passion with the Sermon of the Lord’s Burial conducted inside Braga Cathedral takes place. It is later followed by another night-time procession through the city. And on Easter Saturday the Vigília Pascal taking place, culminating with the Procession of the Resurrection through Braga’s historic centre. That is also the last day of the religious part of Easter and the start of Easter week.
About 100 000 people take part in the celebrations in Braga. And Braga is probably the most famous place for Easter celebrations in Portugal but there are festivities all around the country. Festa da Mãe Soberana in Loulé, Algarve region is also well worth a visit. It is one of the largest processions in the country.
Apart from the religious characteristics of this time of year, people also celebrate by eating and drinking. Traditional food includes folar, a sweet or savoury bread that comes with a boiled egg in the middle. Enjoyable but still religious as it symbolizes the last supper and the resurrection of Christ.
Codfish is usually eaten as the main course on Good Friday and Holy Saturday, as meat should not be eaten until Sunday. Easter Sunday is all about roasted lamb.
In Spain, the holy week is also greatly celebrated and on the one hand it is a very religious and solemn time but on the other hand a time for festivities and enjoyment. The traditions vary from region to region but the celebrations in Andalusia are something spectacular.
In Andalusia the holy week is celebrated in full of colour, with art, religion and extravagant processions. The most spectacular events take place in Malaga and Seville, where the streets are taken over by flamboyant parades and intricate religious displays depicting biblical scenes.
Like everywhere in Spain, the festivities begin on Palm Sunday (Domingo de Ramos) and last until Easter Monday (Lunes de Pascua), with the most dramatic and passionate parades held on Maundy Thursday and Good Friday.
The period leading up to Easter, the Spaniards’ intake of food is moderate and as soon as it is Easter time all the goodies are brought out. One can indulge in such tasty foods like Torrijas, thick pieces of bread soaked in milk and egg and fried in olive oil. The fried bread is eaten with sugar and honey. And there is a meat pie called Hornazo which is often filled with pork, chorizo, and hard-boiled eggs.
The Hornazo also comes in a sweet version with almonds, eggs, and sugar. Other fried pastries are Flores de Semana Santa or Flores Manchegas. They are sweet and come in lovely shapes. Yes, the Spaniards love their fried sweets and another example of a fried sweet served for Easter is Buñuelos. This treat resembles a doughnut and is made with water, milk, egg or yeast and can be sweet or savoury.
But also in Spain, we see cod on the Easter table. Traditionally served on Good Friday before Easter Sunday, the stew Potaje de Vigiliais is made of cod, chickpeas, spinach, and garlic. Or you can have a bowl of soup if you prefer. Sopa de Ajo is often made of garlic, chicken broth, egg, and sherry, and is also a traditional food to serve during Semana Santa.
There is a cake, Mona de Pascua, popular especially in Catalonia and Valencia which is decorated a bit more like perhaps you would during Easter. It is a cake given to children and it is decorated with colourful feathers and eggs (hard boiled or chocolate), and ornaments like tiny chicks and dolls.
Easter is a fantastic time to visit Portugal and Spain. You can enjoy the local atmosphere and traditions, sample local delicacies and learn more about the Easter celebrations.
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